From Kruger Park to Johannesburg

A cheetah at the HESC.

On our way up Abel Erasmus Pass. Stunning scenery.

Leaving then Kruger National Park, our destination was the Manor Guest House in Lydenburg.  We stopped for a tour of the Cheetah Sanctuary, or the Hoedspruit Endangered Species Center (HESC) where Joe had booked an 11:00 a.m. tour several months before. When we arrived the staff had no record of our booking. We were shown a 25 minutes National Geographic video and taken on a 30 minute drive in a Land Rover.  We drove between numerous, spacious fenced enclosures and were disappointed that we couldn’t see any of the animals close-up without a fence between us. The lunch was good however, salvaging some of the disappointment. An African Grey parrot kept Avery amused. The HESC is a worthy project but when you have spent ten days seeing wildlife roaming free in the open bush it is a disappointment.

The scenery along the highway to Lydenburg was ever changing as we left the bush and drove westward to Abel Erasmus Pass, past the Blyde River Canyon turnoff and up the mountain to the J. G Strijdom Tunnel.  We stopped to look at the crafts and visit a bit with the women who sat there all day with their small children enticing tourists to buy their wares. We drove on and detoured to Blyde River Canyon overlook and took photos of the Three Rondavels on the opposite the edge of the gorge. Regrettably we had not allowed ourselves time to explore this region which is very picturesque and has many interesting stops. It was late in the day when we arrived in Lydenburg and city traffic was just like rush hour at home.  The streets were filled with people walking in all directions as it was the end of the workday.  It took a while to find our B&B (Manor Guesthouse) and it was a little difficult to park the large van in the small gated area. 

The Manor Guest House - Lydenburg

The accommodations were spacious and lovely, however, very cold.  The hostess turned on our electric blankets and the wall space heater.  CJ and Joe and Jan had free standing fireplaces in their rooms—but J&J couldn’t light the fire because they had no matches.  We took the van and went in search of something to eat and found a pizza-fish place, fast food that was filling and satisfying.  Michelle caught the attention of the girls behind the counter, they noticed she was American, and soon they all left their posts and were asking all sorts of questions about the US.  Pictures were taken, the food was delicious and we were on our way to Spar (store) for more provisions.  Biscuits disappeared quickly and we had another day on the road tomorrow.  The beds were warm and comfortable, but the wi-fi was tricky.  We had been without email for a several days and we needed to check in.

It was nice to have coffee and tea service in our room, so we enjoyed a cup before packing up and having breakfast at 7:30 Wednesday in the sun-room in the main house.  We again had typical African fare, a choice of cereals, fruit, yogurt and cooked breakfast of eggs, mushrooms, tomatoes, bacon or sausage and toast.

The N4 to Pretoria

Our drive was mostly on a toll highway to Pretoria.  We had a standing PBJ (peanut butter and jelly – for those who are not familiar with this staple) picnic at a rest stop on the way.  Pretoria (Tswhana) is a bustling capitol city to the north of Johannesburg.  We stopped at the historic Union Buildings where the administrative government for South Africa has its offices.  The lovely gardens were not in bloom, as it was wintertime, but the vista was impressive and there were crafts to browse.  Michelle and Avery picked up small gifts for Avery’s friends. 

Joe phoned Barry Blair (old friend from Rhodes University and Rhodesia) and got directions to his home.  Of course, we missed a turn on the busy confusing highways but Kevin used his GPS and rescued us.  Barry welcomed us and served tea before Hilary arrived home from teaching her Pilates class and reminded him of the milk tart (melktert), so we each had a slice of the wonderful pudding.  Joe and Jan wanted to visit with their long-time friends and the kids were eager to move around so Barry and Joe took them to nearby MonteCasino where they toured the Bird Sanctuary and shops.  Jan stayed to visit with Hilary and then we made plans to have dinner at our airport hotel that night.  J&J then met the kids at Monte- Casino.  Before entering, we had to pass through a security check, opening our bags and being frisked—they were looking for handguns.  We sat with the kids while they had an Italian dinner and heard tales of the birds attacking them in the aviary.  They laughed so hard telling us about their experience there.

 

Historic Union Buildings - Administrative Capitol of SA.

We encountered rush-hour traffic on the drive to the Garden Court Hotel at O.R. Tambo  Airport.  An accident brought traffic to a halt—no matter what country one may be in, highway traffic can be a pain.  Thankfully Kevin used his GPS to get us on the right highway.  As we neared the airport, we could see the hotel, but couldn’t find an exit to get to it, so we went in circles until Kevin found the exit we needed on his GPS.  We were all a bit stir-crazy by the time we unloaded our luggage.  Joe needed to return the rental car but decided to call the agency and asked them to pick it up at the hotel—the road maze was too much to deal with a second time.  Advice to anyone visiting O. R. Tambo airport in Johannesburg for the first time (or tenth time!) - call for help.

We put our luggage in our room just as Barry and Hilary arrived.  It was so much fun sitting down for a relaxing buffet dinner and catching up, laughing like we always do together.  The dinner was delicious and the puddings plentiful.  We had long ago given in to the delicious fare.  
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And so ended our adventures in the northern provinces.  Tomorrow we would fly to the coast at Port Elizabeth and bring Joe back to the familiar Eastern Cape where he had attended High School and University in the 50s and 60s.

Visiting Timbavati Private Game Reserve

On August 26, 2001 we left the USA on South African Airways out of Atlanta for an overnight flight to Johannesburg. We were traveling with Jerry and Joni Lund from Crested Butte, Colorado, who had never been to Africa before. Arriving in the morning, we rented a car and drove to Pretoria, visiting old friends for tea and then doing a leisurely walk in the gardens in front of the Union Buildings, where Nelson Mandela’s office was located. From there we headed east to Lydenburg where we had booked accommodations at the very nice B&B, the “Manor Guest House.” (Note: We will be staying there again this coming July and highly recommend it to anyone traveling in this area of South Africa.)

After a restful night’s sleep and a hardy breakfast we took the beautiful scenic route to Hoedspruit down the Abel Erasmus Pass, stopping, on the way, to see the Bourke’s Luck Potholes and to admire the incredible scenic overlooks across the Blyde River Canyon.  Soon after passing through the town of Hoedspruit we turned to enter the gravel road to the Timbavati Private Game Reserve.

Our drive continued through quaint villages and as we neared Kings Camp we saw monkeys, baboons, eland and giraffe through the game fence along the gravel road.  Kings Camp, aptly named because the guests are treated like kings, is situated in the Timbavati Private Nature Reserve, part of the extended greater Kruger National Park. It is one of the upscale and fairly expensive  game lodges in the area. Arriving just before the  afternoon game drive was beginning we immediately began our game viewing adventure in the heart of the bush just 20 minutes later. Our luggage was whisked into the luxurious air-conditioned chalets and we boarded an open land rover for the drive. So, a mere 48 hours after leaving the US we were in the middle of the African bush – what a change!

Kings Camp friendly & expert Rangers & trackers

Patrick was our ranger-guide and Paul, the tracker, rode on a seat on the front fender.  Soon after we left camp we drove to a site overlooking a river and saw a herd of buffalo numbering over 100.  We encountered a breeding herd of elephant including tiny babies that stayed close to their mothers.  While driving through the bush we came upon a mature male lion lying by the road.  He sat up to give us a look but soon continued his rest. 

We stopped for sundowners by a dam and enjoyed cheese and biscuits, biltong sausage rolls and peanuts with raisins along with our drinks.  The hostess included extra food since we told her we had missed lunch.  In the failing light of the setting red sun we made our way to see five lions feeding on a mature female giraffe they had taken earlier that day.  In the bright light of three land rovers we saw and heard the gnawing on flesh and tearing of skin.  All the while Joni was exclaiming her disbelief at what she was seeing.  We put on our jackets and huddled under blankets for the chilly drive back to camp.

Jan in front of the Kings Camp luxury chalets

We had time to explore our roomy accommodations and shower before dinner.  The sleigh bed was canopied with a dramatic mosquito net. Turn down service provided chocolate mints on the pillows and switched on the electric heating pads in the beds.  There was a sofa, coffee table covered with books and a side chair as well as a desk.  A lovely arrangement of flowers stood tall in a corner vase.  Luxurious terry robes were provided and the bathroom had a tub, 2 sinks and 2 showers—one glassed indoors and one in a walled garden outdoors.  Of course there was bubble bath, shampoo and moisturizer provided too, as well as coffee/tea service, a stocked refrigerator and hair dryer.

Drinks were served in the lounge before dinner.  The linen and crystal service on the tables enhanced the cuisine of tomato soup starter, Thai chicken, vegetables and potatoes and a pastry topped with whipped cream for dessert.  Patrick joined us at our table and willingly answered all the questions we had and said he would be sure we had a wake-up call at “dark-thirty” (5:30 a.m.) the next morning for our game drive. 

Wednesday, August 29

Everyone gathered for coffee and rusks before we again boarded the Land Rovers.  The couple that had been with us the night before was leaving that day so we had the Land Rover all to ourselves. Shortly after the gorgeous sunrise Paul set out on foot in the bush to track a leopard that was in the area.  Patrick drove us back to the lion kill and it was even more amazing in the daylight.  The 3 female and 2 male lions had eaten quite a bit during the night and some were sleeping while others continued to pull and chew on the carcass.  We saw the hyena we had heard in the night stalking at a distance and noticed the vultures gathering in the treetops waiting their turn.  Butterflies floated through the bush; after all it was springtime.  We saw the buffalo herd again, hippo, elephants, impala - lots of impala, and the tiny antelope called a steenbok.  We never knew what we would see around the next turn.  Paul found fresh spoor (footprints) of the leopard and her cub but we didn’t see them.

We returned to camp for a full breakfast buffet of fruit, yogurt, cheese, pancakes, sausage, bacon, eggs, potatoes, mushrooms, eggplant, tomatoes and baked beans.  We then had time to explore our surroundings, test the cool water in the swimming pool, shop in the gift shop, write post cards and rest before high tea was served early afternoon.  It was a warm sunny day, just perfect for an outdoor shower.  Joe took advantage of the workout room and ran on the treadmill for a while.

 As we began the afternoon drive Paul continued to track Java, the leopard.  We returned to the lion kill, which was beginning to smell.  The lions were still feeding, although two walked away for a drink nearby and then returned and others were content and napping.  We saw a small herd of young bachelor elephants that waved their ears and eyed us suspiciously.  We interrupted the game drive for the traditional “sundowners” and enjoyed drinks and snacks.  Other game to check off our list was the small spotted genet, civet, and a duiker.  All the while Patrick was keeping in touch with Paul by radio as he tracked the leopard.  She was spotted near camp and the three vehicles converged in the area.  We had given up and almost returned to camp when one land rover caught her in its light walking in the wide sandy riverbed.  The baboons in the trees were barking, they had seen the leopard, too.  Patrick turned around and we headed that way.  It was worth the wait to see her.  She was so beautiful and majestic as she walked right past us, so close we could have touched her.  What a thrill!

Leopard in the headlights

There was lively conversation at dinner that night which was served under the stars in a boma (a roughly enclosed area around a blazing fire).  We were served typical African fare on warmed plates: impala, sausage, curried vegetables, corn on the cob, potatoes and more vegetables.  Joni loved the impala filet.  She said, “Yum yum!”  Thereafter whenever we saw impala she repeated, “Yum yum!”  It really is delicious and frequently served.  Thrilled with the day’s sightings we didn’t tarry around the fire in the welcoming chairs knowing that we had another early morning drive ahead.  We were pleased to find our clean laundry waiting in our rooms.

Thursday, August 30

During the night we heard buffalo walk through camp between the bungalows and were told 2 male lions followed them. We again had a 5:30 AM wake up call and coffee before we began our final drive.  Fresh rhino spoor was found and we drove through the bush looking for them but had no luck.  That sight would have completed the “Big Five” since we had already seen lion, leopard, buffalo and elephant.  We didn’t see much game except impala and mongoose.  Paul noticed fresh leopard footprints, too.  Then he noticed the Land Rover had a flat tire, so we watched as they changed it and then we returned to camp. 

A stop for petrol along the road to Kruger Park

We had breakfast, then packed our car and left for our next adventure.  We returned to the town (Hoedspruit) to change more money into Rand.  While Joe and Jerry were in the bank, Joni walked around and talked with the people.  We then made the three hour drive to Satara Camp in Kruger National Park.